Surfing

Paddling past the break
Summer sun on wet suited backs
Hair bleached by sun and sea
Slicked back by waves frothy
Ducking under breaking water
Up again and paddling
Now sitting and watching
Incoming set building
Tension and excitement
Counting the break
Timing the take off
Turning, paddling
Board gathers speed
Smooth motion
Crouching then up
Exhilaration of speed
Twisting, turning
Down and bottom turn back up
Riding the crest
Racing the wall of water
Inside the barrel
Hand on the face
Roaring wave crashing
Wipeout
Tumbling twisting
Green room
Popping up to paddle back out
Waving to mates waiting
Fantastic rush of life
Camaraderie of surfers
All here for fun and living
The zone of total silence
Yet loud piercing joy
Of sand, water, sunscreen and wax
Leg ropes and fins
Cutting, slicing waves of purest blue green
Sparkling with the promise
Of times yet to come
BBQ and beer
Bronzed bikini clad bodies
Dancing around the fire